It’s the lunch rush on a busy Wednesday at Dengeos in suburban Skokie. The restaurant’s menu reads like the guest list for a party dedicated to fans of Chicago greasy spoons — mustardy hot dogs, Italian beefs, Polish sausages and mostaccioli abound. And, of course, gyros. Dengeos is a Greek restaurant first and foremost, and it’s been serving up the yogurty, salty pita pockets since 1972.⁠ ⁠ Behind the counter, between the shuffle of cooks and kitchen staff, Dengeos owner Nick Theodosis shows off the key to the joint’s long-running success: three large machines, each with its own cone of rotating, sizzling gyro meat.⁠ ⁠ “These are the autodoners,” said Theodosis. “And this,” he picked up a device that looked like a handheld Dyson fan, “is called the Wizard. It shaves the gyro paper thin.”⁠ ⁠ In 1974 and 1975, only a few years after Dengeos first opened, two Chicago-based companies, Grecian Delights and Kronos Foods, began mass-producing the world’s first hydraulically pressed gyro cones. This modern marvel of rotisserie meat allowed for a more consistent, and therefore easier-to-sell, product. Eventually, the two companies merged in 2020, but in the years prior, they helped turn an ancient dish (some estimate the cooking techniques behind the gyro could be at least 2,000 years old) into a fast-casual staple, one that launched as many Dengeos-style Greek eateries as Helen launched ships from Troy.⁠ ⁠ Tap on our bio link to read more. ⁠ ⁠ -----⁠ ⁠ Photo 1: The gyro sandwich at Dengeos in Skokie.⁠ ⁠ Photo 2: Line cook Juan Salas shaves gyro meat off its cone at Dengeos.⁠ ⁠ Photo 3: A gyro sandwich is prepared.⁠ ⁠ ? Charlie Kolodziej / for the Chicago Tribune⁠ ?️ Terrence Antonio James / Chicago Tribune⁠

It’s the lunch rush on a busy Wednesday at Dengeos in suburban Skokie. The restaurant’s menu reads like the guest list for a party dedicated to fans of Chicago greasy spoons — mustardy hot dogs, Italian beefs, Polish sausages and mostaccioli abound. And, of course, gyros. Dengeos is a Greek restaurant first and foremost, and it’s been serving up the yogurty, salty pita pockets since 1972.⁠
⁠
Behind the counter, between the shuffle of cooks and kitchen staff, Dengeos owner Nick Theodosis shows off the key to the joint’s long-running success: three large machines, each with its own cone of rotating, sizzling gyro meat.⁠
⁠
“These are the autodoners,” said Theodosis. “And this,” he picked up a device that looked like a handheld Dyson fan, “is called the Wizard. It shaves the gyro paper thin.”⁠
⁠
In 1974 and 1975, only a few years after Dengeos first opened, two Chicago-based companies, Grecian Delights and Kronos Foods, began mass-producing the world’s first hydraulically pressed gyro cones. This modern marvel of rotisserie meat allowed for a more consistent, and therefore easier-to-sell, product. Eventually, the two companies merged in 2020, but in the years prior, they helped turn an ancient dish (some estimate the cooking techniques behind the gyro could be at least 2,000 years old) into a fast-casual staple, one that launched as many Dengeos-style Greek eateries as Helen launched ships from Troy.⁠
⁠
Tap on our bio link to read more. ⁠
⁠
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Photo 1: The gyro sandwich at Dengeos in Skokie.⁠
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Photo 2: Line cook Juan Salas shaves gyro meat off its cone at Dengeos.⁠
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Photo 3: A gyro sandwich is prepared.⁠
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? Charlie Kolodziej / for the Chicago Tribune⁠
?️ Terrence Antonio James / Chicago Tribune⁠