“Never heard of ’The Bear,’” Mary Fontano said, the smell of giardiniera and salted meat in the air in Little Italy. She is a co-owner of the original Fontano’s Subs on Polk Street, alongside her brother, Neil Fontano. The family business has been a fixture of this otherwise residential block for nearly 100 years. She turned to the customers lined up to pay for their Italian beefs. “You hear about ’The Bear?’” she asked a man in a reflective construction vest holding a wrapped sandwich. “’The Bear?’” the customer asked. “What’s that?” Food spaces all across Chicago seem to be buzzing about the show. But not here. In FX’s “The Bear,” a major question is how family-owned restaurants survive the intense stress and conflict of the kitchen. In the intertwined stories of Fontano’s and its cousin establishment, Carm’s Beef and Italian Ice, there are parallels worth considering, even as the staff keeps a healthy distance from the show. Tap on our bio link to read more. —— Photo 1: Owner Mary Fontano, 63, sits with her journal at Fontano’s Subs in Chicago on July 25, 2024. Fontano is retired but still comes into the shop during the summer and sits by the register, journaling and enjoying the company of the customers. Her father did the same when he retired from his role at the shop. “My dad always liked to have a Fontano in the store,” she said. Photo 2: Italian beef with homemade giardiniera and french fries at Carm’s Beef and Italian Ice. Photo 3: The pot roast sandwich at Fontano’s Subs. ? Ahmed Ali Akbar / Chicago Tribune ? Tess Crowley / Chicago Tribune

“Never heard of ’The Bear,’” Mary Fontano said, the smell of giardiniera and salted meat in the air in Little Italy. She is a co-owner of the original Fontano’s Subs on Polk Street, alongside her brother, Neil Fontano. The family business has been a fixture of this otherwise residential block for nearly 100 years. She turned to the customers lined up to pay for their Italian beefs.

“You hear about ’The Bear?’” she asked a man in a reflective construction vest holding a wrapped sandwich.

“’The Bear?’” the customer asked. “What’s that?”
Food spaces all across Chicago seem to be buzzing about the show. But not here.

In FX’s “The Bear,” a major question is how family-owned restaurants survive the intense stress and conflict of the kitchen. In the intertwined stories of Fontano’s and its cousin establishment, Carm’s Beef and Italian Ice, there are parallels worth considering, even as the staff keeps a healthy distance from the show.

Tap on our bio link to read more.

——

Photo 1: Owner Mary Fontano, 63, sits with her journal at Fontano’s Subs in Chicago on July 25, 2024. Fontano is retired but still comes into the shop during the summer and sits by the register, journaling and enjoying the company of the customers. Her father did the same when he retired from his role at the shop. “My dad always liked to have a Fontano in the store,” she said.

Photo 2: Italian beef with homemade giardiniera and french fries at Carm’s Beef and Italian Ice.

Photo 3: The pot roast sandwich at Fontano’s Subs.

? Ahmed Ali Akbar / Chicago Tribune
? Tess Crowley / Chicago Tribune